Uncorked

Monday’s are wine industry tasting days here in Portland. It is the only day of the week our wine shop is closed, and that is so Mike and I can go out and taste wine to see what we want to bring into the store.

This past Monday held several tasting events around the Portland area. Since there is only two of us, Mike and I decided to split up and diversify. Mike took a group of guys down to Salem for the annual Grape Stomp at Willamette Valley Vineyards, and I headed downtown to El Gaucho with our good friend, Kim, for the Royal Tokaji tasting.

“The Renaissance of Tokaji,” was the name of the tasting, and it featured some of the most sought after and distinguished first-growth Tokaji’s of Hungary. This was my first experience with Tokaji, as it is only beginning to be discovered in the United States and greater wine world at large.

Although there are some Tokaji’s produced as a dry wine, most people know Tokaji as a dessert style wine, wonderfully sweet and delicious. Tokaji’s are often compared to the Sauternes of France. They have beautiful acidity to balance the flavors, and pair up nicely with an assortment of blue cheeses, and a variety of desserts.

Here is the line-up of wines we tasted:
Royal Tokaji 2003 Red Label, Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos
Royal Tokaji 2000 Betsek, Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth
Royal Tokaji 1999 St. Tamas, Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos, First Growth
Royal Tokaji 1999 Nyulaszo, Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos, Great First Growth
Royal Tokaji 1999 Mezes Maly, Tokaji Aszu, 6 Puttonyos, Great First Growth
Royal Tokaji 1995 Aszu Essencia

For our food pairing, we were served lemon crème brulee and bread pudding infused with apple and topped with whipped cream. It was rich! The flavors were vibrant and alive, but I almost would have preferred a stinky cheese with a fruit compote as the pairing, to balance the sweetness of the wine with the pungency of the cheese. I like contrasting flavors, and the wonderful profile complexity it provides.

All of the wines were unique and delicious – Kim and I had a hard time deciding which one’s we liked best. In the end, I think (aside from the 1995 which was in a category all of its own), I preferred the Betsek Aszu 6 Puttonyos 2000. It had both crisp, bright materiality and plenty of viscosity, but it also had beautiful orange blossom and honeysuckle notes, which made it simply intoxicating. I would certainly recommend Tokaji to anyone who likes dessert wines.

Overall, the tasting was spectacular. Now we just have to decide which wines to bring into the shop. All in a days work!

Two Fridays ago, we showcased a fantastic line-up of small production imports from Italy. These wines are almost impossible to come by in US, and our supply is extremely limited. I tasted the wines six months ago at an industry tasting at Southpark downtown, and feel in love with several of these stunning imports, so I was thrilled to finally be able to show off the wines I selected to all of our customers.

The night was a success, and we just about sold out of everything we brought in. Luckily, we are able to secure a few additional bottles of the Coda Di Volpe (a surprising favorite of the evening). The Tenuta Ponte Irpinia Coda Di Volpe is virtually unknown in the United States. This full-bodied ancient grape grows on cliffs off the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Ripe and luscious, yet full of minerality and seaside charm, this wines a great-end-of-summer libation, the perfect companion to oysters, halibut, and spicy Thai food. Yum!

11/25/07

“A taste of Peru in the Pearl”

Colorful, lively, and sapid, Andina is a unique and unexpected culinary experience in the heart of the Pearl. Unlike many up-scale restaurants with white table cloths and stuffy, up-tight food snobs, Andina is warm and inviting - urbane, yet flirtatious. The atmosphere is spicy and salacious, with live Latin music, tantalizing scents, and seductive fare. Multi-colored cloth napkins larkishly adorn the tables with deep reds, rich saffron yellows, and exotic blues, evoking feelings of an animated Lima street festival. Yet, the service is that of a five-star hotel with prompt, knowledgeable staff, seamless dispensation, and exotic presentations. Andina is truly an aesthetic experience.

With a variety of diverse dishes and a gluten-free menu, it is easy to find something for everyone. Among our favorite dishes were the following (descriptions taken from the dinner menu):

ATUN CON TACU TACU Y AGUAYMANTO
”seared yellow fin tuna crusted with black pepper and orange zest, served with lentil tacu-tacu, orange-endive ‘salsa criolla’ and a cape gooseberry-aji-amarillo sauce.” $27

CONCHAS DEL SENOR DE SIPAN
”quinoa crusted diver scallops perched on top of wilted spinach and potato parsnip puree, with golden beet and crabmeat “cannelloni”, and a duet of red beet and passion fruit reductions.” $24.

CORDERITO DE LOS ANDES
”a succulent double rack of grass-fed lamb grilled to order, and served with a peruvian yellow potato and three cheese timbale with a sublime roasted pepper demi-glace.” $26.

My personal favorite was the yellowfin tuna, although the scallops followed as a close second. The passion fruit reduction was an absolute perfect compliment to the scallops, and paired harmoniously with the 1996 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc.

In Mike’s typical over-the-top fashion, he opened a bottle of 2002 Domaine Drouhin Louise which paired beautifully with the luscious rack of lamb, drawing forth its delicate subtleties with the rich, savory essence of the Pinot. The union was simply stunning!

The wine list was diverse, plentiful and easy to navigate. I was pleased to find some of the smaller boutique Oregon wineries, such as Adea and JK Carrier, as well as some of the bigger names like Domaine Drouhin and Elk Cove. I would have liked a more impressive selection of sparkling, including the grower-producer champagnes, but they did provide some excellent Cava. Albert Mann Pinot Blanc was listed at only $9 a glass, and in my opinion is one of the most graceful Pinot Blanc’s on the market today.

One of the best parts of experiencing Andina is meeting “Mama.” As a family owned and operated business, the Rodriquez’s wants every guest to feel as if they are in their home. To help facilitate this feeling of closeness, at the end of night, Mama (the mother of the chefs and co-owner of Andina), comes out and greets every table - asking you if you enjoyed your meal and encouraging you to visit her homeland of Peru, for it is “the most beautiful country” according to Mama. She is truly enchanting, and completes the feeling of warmth and authenticity.

I hate to be overly flattering in a review but it is honestly difficult to find anything negative to say about Andina. It is fresh and exciting, not overly refined but delightfully charming and evocative. Articulate and delicious, Andina is the place to go for a truly ethnic experience.

Check out their website at www.andinarestaurant.com

Written by: Amanda Flaker

Madeira: a wine with an unlikely history

12/5/07

Rich, lush, and seductive, Madeira is a stunning addition to the holiday celebrations. Virtually indestructible, these wines can last for several months after opening, and range from dry to sweet and everything in-between. Together with Port, they serve as two of the world’s leading fortified wines. Choose from rustic vintage Madeira’s, to young and vibrant ruby Ports – the possibilities are endless!

Rich in history, the story behind Madeira is intricate and complex – just like the wine. Grown on the island of Madeira (off the coast of Portugal), these wines mark a fascinating turn in the history of wine making. In the 17th century, Madeira’s wine was carried in small casks on ships bound for the Americas. During the voyage, the wines were rigorously exposed to oxidation, extreme heat, and constant motion.

Much to the amazement of the crew, the wines not only survived the journey, but evolved in a rather curious way; as the wine crossed the equator, it began to express more delicate, smooth characteristics than demonstrated prior to the trip. Interestingly enough, the same wine, after the journey back, proved to evolve even more, revealing secondary flavors such as maple brown sugar, toffee, and truffles.

Soon, word got out among Europeans that wine which crossed the equator twice, or “vinho da roda,” was among the most sophisticated wine of the age. Madeira’s popularity grew, and is known to this day as one of the world’s finest fortified wines.

The four “noble grape varieties” of Madeira are unique among the world of vineyards. They are said to make the very best Madeira. Learning these terms are a good way to know which style of wine you’re getting when choosing Madeira (the names are typically listed on the label):

Sercial: the rarest and the driest Madeira.

Verdelho: medium-dry, with a light sweetness.

Boal (or Bual): medium-sweet, reveal much of the most notable Madeira characteristics.

Malmsey: the sweetest Madeira, but contains high acidity which nicely balances the sweetness.

One of our favorite Madeira’s is Rare Wine Company’s, New York Malmsey. A perfect after dinner libation, packed with flavors of burnt-caramel, honeyed toffee and scorched earth. Scoring a stunning 93 points in Wine Enthusiast, this wine is versatile and delicious - a perfect pairing for mild to medium bodied cigars, or as a compliment to your favorite dessert!

Only $46.25 a bottle!

If you haven’t had the pleasure of Madeira, this season is the perfect time to discover what you’ve been missing. Stop by the shop today for a bottle, or enjoy a glass in our wine bar and experience the wine that’s been around the world!

See you at the shop!

Written by: Amanda Flaker

Dine peacefully on the river in a restaurant that floats in McCuddy’s Marina, in Scappoose. This charming, laid-back, cozy little nook is a great place to relax and enjoy savory food, the great outdoors, and stunning wine. The menu is both “globally and domestically influenced” and offers a variety flavor.

I recently sat down to a spectacular meal with Brook Steele, the manager and wine hustler over at Mark’s on the Channel. Our evening began at a table outside on the dock, where the sun was warm and setting below a tranquil sky. A light breeze gently rippled the water, as docked boats bopped up and down along the shore.

Brook started us off with a bottle of Argyle Brut sparkling 2002 which was a perfect palate cleanser, boasting notes of toasted marshmallow, bursting out of playful little bubbles. My palate was revived. We slowly sipped our sparkling wine and chatted under a melting sun about all things beautiful. This was my first lesson at Mark’s – it is laid back, and that is definitely part of its charm.

Although the wine list is superb, and the food is unique and creative, it is not a snobby, uptight food establishment by any means – in fact, most guests were sitting on the dock in sandals sipping beer and watching the sun smear across a velvet evening sky.

We started with fresh, meaty crab cakes, and an order of Saganaki (fried cheese) with fresh assorted fruit. Our Caesar salad was made with in house Blue and a wedge of wonderfully pungent blue cheese on the side.

Everything paired beautifully with the Agyle Brut, which we quickly diminished. We moved onto the bold Saffron Risotto, graciously opened with a bottle of 2004 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru Bourgone that I happened to bring along for the evening. The rich, muscular flavors in the food seemed to stand aside for the subtle delicacy of the Bourgone, showcasing the ritzy guts Corton Charlemagne is made of.

Grand Cru Bourgone also proved to be an excellent choice for the succulent swordfish drizzled with a citrus reduction. Even the Cornish Game hen held it’s own. Everything was great – it was the perfect dance between wine and food, lover and beloved, seducer, and the seduced.

The evening ended as the sun slipped beyond the horizon, and an assortment of savory desserts were paraded out and paired with the Dr. L Riesling (a surperb, off dry riesling).

If you haven’t had a chance to experience the pleasure of Mark’s on the Channel, you are definitely missing something magical, laid-back, and bold. It is an experience to be remembered.

Be sure to check out their website to find out all that Mark’s has to offer (including live music and dancing) at www.marksonthechannel.com.

Until then, CHEERS, and see you at the shop!

Amanda

We love finding wines under $12 that blow us away. Unfortunately, these finds are rare indeed, but the Vila Tinto Fundacion out of Mendoza, definitely fits the profile. A blend of Argentina’s distinguished varietals – Bonarda, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this tender beauty is young and vivacious – a perfect summer red that pairs harmoniously with most meat dishes, and even stands up to grilled veggies and salmon. And the best part is, it’s only $7.85 a bottle! Try it today, you won’t be disappointed.

Last week when the weather warmed the air with spices for one glorious day, I decided to celebrate the elusive sun by treating myself to a bottle of Clos des Papes blanc and fresh grilled catfish. Yes, I know this was a bit of a splurge, but the rain had been wearing me down, and I needed a little pick me up.

There are rare moments in life where beauty unfolds itself in such a way that the clouds open up and the “Alajuela” chorus booms from above - this definitely was one of those moments. As the wine touched my palate, a teasingly soft, pear-like texture gently melted into my mouth, lingering on my senses. The wine was fleshy, ripe and alive. Medium bodied and luscious, this gem parades a line up of citrus summer fruits, infused with intoxicating honeysuckle and orange peel. I was in heaven.

Clos des Papes is arguably one of the most superb producers of Chateauneuf du Pape. This dazzling white is truly a work of art, composed by none other than the famed Paul Avril, who has been crafting wines from Clos des Papes for several decades. My palate was drenched in this sinfully delicious masterpiece for one glorious afternoon, as I explored her beauty, and feasted on the “richest of fairs”. It was everything I never knew, I always wanted.

Now that is what I call an afternoon in the sun. I highly recommend it.

3/27/08

The shop seems to get busier every night! We are pleased that many of you have made Renaissance your evening hang out, and we are grateful for the relationships we are making along the way.

As the wine bar portion of the business grows, we are continually searching for top-notch, interesting, and affordable wines to make your wine experience here more pleasurable.

Recently, a group of regulars opened up a bottle of the 2006 Pascual Toso Malbec. We were all amazed at the bold beauty brought forth through flavors of smoky plumb, boysenberry, and spiced clove. This wine seemed to be the perfect compliment to the Hercules pizza from Garlic Jim’s, and the friendly game of Cribbage enjoyed by everyone hanging around the shop (we do occasionally keep it simple).

At only $12.25 a bottle, we understand why Wine Enthusiasts named this Malbec the #1 Best Buy of 2007! In fact, we liked the wine so much that we decided to feature it in this week’s tasting of South American terrior. Thank you to everyone who made the night such a memorable one. And for all of you who were not here, be reminded of how much fun you miss when you’re away!